Serena Calder, GardenWise Researcher

There are many ways to deter ants without using pesticides. These methods may require repetition as ants are hardy creatures, but persistence and the combination of a few methods should get rid of the ant problem permanently.

The ideal solution is to find the source of the ants and eliminate them by pouring vinegar or boiling water on their mounds. Repeat this a few times, and combine it with one of the following methods to deter the ants from returning.

Several substances can be sprinkled around the garden or the home to repel ants. Fresh-ground black pepper, ground-up chalk, baby powder, ginger, cinnamon, or coffee grounds can be sprinkled in the home, around the plants or around the perimeter of the garden if they appear to damage the plants. Apply daily for a few days to ensure the ants will not return.

Spray solutions can also deter ants. They can be sprayed in the garden, on anthills, or in the home unless the smell overwhelms. A few mixtures to try:

A very effective ant repellent is mint, so planting some mint in your garden will surely help the problem. Keep the roots contained by keeping it potted because mint has invasive tendencies. Another option is to put a jar of honey by a tree or other location by the edge of the yard to relocate the ants. Also, if their pathways are known, draw lines of chalk across them – ants will not cross chalk.

Of course, the usual cautions apply, like throwing out garbage right away and not keeping old fruit or food out too long.

Serena Calder, GardenWise Researcher

We have some links to video podcasts available on our website, click here for a series of video podcasts by gardening expert Gord Nickel.

CTV’s Tamara Taggart also has a good gardening series called “Way to Grow.” Video for this program is available here.

Kelowna radio station AM 1150 has a live phone-in gardening show at 8:00 a.m. each Saturday morning. It can be streamed online from anywhere on their website.

Gardening expert Carolyn Herriot has done a few radio bits, and here is a podcast with her about organic gardening.

Serena Calder, GardenWise Researcher

There are several ways to get rid of aphids.

Try spraying them with a solution of 15 mL (1 Tbsp.) dish soap mixed with 1 L (1 qt.) of lukewarm water. Test the solution on a single leaf first to make sure it does not burn the plant’s foliage. Apply the solution with a spray bottle to ensure the leaves are thoroughly covered, and then using fingers gently rub all surfaces of the foliage. Afterward, rinse the plant thoroughly using fresh water. Repeat as necessary.

Conway Lum, plant problem expert, has several suggestions to get rid of and prevent the return of aphids.

Wash them away with a mild stream of water a few times a week early in the day to avoid wet leaves late in the evening.

Planting flowers rich in pollen and nectar (like sunflowers, purple coneflowers, and sweet alyssum) will provide food for beneficial insects. These bugs, such as ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and lacewing, will produce more offspring, which will seek out the aphids for food. Lum says if a spray treatment is used, restrict it to spot treatment to reduce negative impact on beneficial insects. He also warns against excessive fertilizing, which can produce succulent foliage and attract aphids.

Ladybugs can also be purchased at nurseries or ordered online or by mail. Ladybugs can eat several hundred aphids a day. The package of insects should be stored in the fridge and gradually released over four or five days at dusk. Releasing them after a light rain is ideal because ladybugs get thirsty after being in transit and in storage (but keep to the release schedule even if it hasn’t rained). Place them right on or by plants with an aphid infestation so they do not need to search for a food source. There is some disagreement about how many ladybugs to use, but around 1,500 should be plenty for home use in a greenhouse or small garden.

Another method is to squeeze the insects by hand, which can be a quick fix. This does pose a risk of inadvertently killing beneficial insects as well, though, if you’re not careful to identify predators versus the good guys.

Finally, remember that aphids are often attracted to unhealthy plants, so optimizing the health of the aphid-covered plant victim is crucial.

Serena Calder, GardenWise Researcher

Honeysuckle can be rooted at any time of the year as long as there is green growth on the vine. First, cut a length of about 13 cm (5 in.) of green, soft wood growth from the end of the vines, making sure to get several sets of leaves on it. Then strip the leaves from the ends of the cuttings nearest the cut ends, leaving one or two leaf nodes bare and one or two sets of leaves on the vine. Then dip the cuttings in rooting hormone and place them in damp potting soil or another rooting medium. Place this container in a warm, sunny place and keep the soil moist.

Another option is to place the cuttings in a vase of water and allow the roots to develop, changing the water frequently to prevent rot. Within a couple of weeks, there should be enough root growth (about 2.5 cm/1 in.) to plant a new honeysuckle vine. Once the honeysuckle has rooted, treat it as a seedling and provide it with plenty of sun and water.

Serena Calder, GardenWise Researcher

Yes, it is possible to grow a mango tree in your greenhouse in North Saanich, but they do not do well in cold weather.

Kyle Exner of B.C. Greenhouse Builders Ltd. recommends keeping the greenhouse above 4°C (40°F) for active growth, as mango trees will go dormant around 4°C. Be careful to not let them go anywhere near freezing because this will damage them. If your greenhouse is cool, Exner advises taking extra measures to keep the mango tree warmer than the rest of the greenhouse. His advice for the best way to do this, because it can be tricky to keep the entire tree warm in a greenhouse with different zones of temperature, is to have two maximum-minimum thermometers in the greenhouse. One placed near the mango tree and the other near the centre of the greenhouse. Keep the heater close to the mango tree and monitor the temperature closely at the start of winter as well as during cold spells.

Exner also says it is okay to wrap the tree in a towel or blanket during cold spells to prevent damage. If it is preferable to move the tree into the house in the winter, Exner expects that would work if it is maneuverable and if light and humidity are accessible.

To produce fruit all year, Exner suggests keeping the greenhouse at a minimum 10°C (50°F) overnight with warmer daytime temperatures and a supplemental source of light in the late fall, winter and spring. Usual greenhouse growing methods are also important, such as good air circulation, and cooling and shading in the summer.

Conway Lum, Certified horticultural technician and GardenWise plant troubleshooter

The Woodbine honeysuckle (Lonicera pericylmenum ‘Belgica') could be either too young or excessively pruned. Flowers are produced on tips of laterals from the previous season’s growth. The plant can tolerate some shade but not excessive. Try bending or training the vine to grow sideways to encourage laterals. Once established, prune back flowering shoots by up to one-third.

Conway Lum, Certified horticultural technician and GardenWise plant troubleshooter

The problem could be bacterial blight (Pseudomonas syringae) and related to the weather we were encountering this past spring. The plants were probably spaced quite close together, which makes them more likely to get infected. Alternately, you can check for signs of webbing to indicate whether or not worms may have been present. With sunnier and warmer weather upon us, blight should become less prevalent. I would suggest just picking off the infected leaves and disposing of them. The new leaves emerging should appear clean.

Conway Lum, Certified horticultural technician and GardenWise plant troubleshooter

Root pruning is possible to control the size of a Russian olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia). I am going to assume the plant is established. The operation is spread out over a two-year period. Dig a trench halfway around about the tree about 1.2 m (4 ft.) from the main trunk. The trench should be about 30 to 45 cm (12 to 18 in.) deep. This should be done when the tree is dormant (winter) and the ground is somewhat moist. The second half of the trench is dug the following winter. Any large roots encountered while digging the trench are sawed off for a clean cut. Replace the soil, firm it well, and mulch in the spring. Staking may be required if the tree in question appears unstable but is not always necessary.

Conway Lum, Certified horticultural technician and GardenWise plant troubleshooter

There is not enough information given so I am going to take a wild guess since I have not encountered this type of problem. The dips and the insects could be related or two separate problems.

If possible try to capture the insect in question and have it identified by a specialist, e.g., local garden centre or nursery (hopefully the staff might recognize the insect). The insects could be the “ground nesting bee,” which are beneficial for pollination. Insects should be considered harmless unless proven otherwise.

The soil condition must be determined, e.g., is there proper depth (min. 10 to 15 cm of soil), adequate drainage, optimum soil texture. Other factors necessary for a successful lawn are correct soil pH, light exposure, grass types appropriate to the conditions they are growing in, etc. Dips, holes and unhealthy lawns can also result from skunks looking for grubs, worms or other insects. Review cultural and environmental conditions to improve chances of growing a successful lawn.

Wim Vander Zalm, Horticulturist, gardening personality and an owner of two Art Knapp Plantland locations

Hydrangeas are an interesting genus in that there is so much diversity between the species. The first thing you’ll need to know is the variety or category of hydrangea you have. Care and maintenance will vary depending on this, particularly when it comes to pruning. Having a hydrangea appropriate for your zone is also important. A variety that is out of zone tolerance may experience much die-back from the cold if unprotected and will re-grow from the crown but is unlikely to blossom that season.

All hydrangeas prefer a moderately bright location, ideally with morning sun and afternoon shade. Hydrangeas have so much leaf mass that when exposed to the hot afternoon sun they transpire and exhaust themselves. They prefer growing in a cool moist soil, and a spring mulching annually will assist in soil-moisture retention.

Pruning incorrectly or at the wrong time of year can prevent blooming. The two most popular categories are Hydrangea macrophylla (the mophead varieties – usually pink or blue – with the big round flowerhead) and H. paniculata (PG) with its cone-shaped flowerheads. The macrophylla group blooms off old wood (stems that have been on the plant since the summer before the current season). I suggest removing stems with the old blossoms from that season down to approximately 15 cm (6 in.) from the crown of the plant. Leave stems that have no blossom unpruned, as they carry the flower buds for the following year. The paniculata (PG) group is a much easier and less complicated pruning task. Come late fall pruning should be harsh. I take mine down to approximately a crown the size of a basketball. This family blooms on new growth from the current season, so nearly all the new growth from a sturdy base will produce a flower bud.